Andreas Döllerer Secures Two Michelin Stars for Second Year in a Row

The Return of the French Michelin Guide Has Shaken Up Austria's Culinary Scene

At least for chefs who had previously fallen through the cracks of the Michelin system—which, until now, had only recognized Vienna and Salzburg—that's the case. One of them is Andreas Döllerer, a top chef from Golling, just 20 kilometers from Salzburg.

How has the Michelin Guide changed things for you?

Honestly, the world hasn't turned upside down. But when we dine abroad, colleagues recognize us more often now. And in summer, during the Salzburg Festival, we notice the difference—our guest list now includes an international crowd. Before last year, not even being mentioned in the Michelin Guide was painful.

What was last year's reveal like when you earned your two stars?

Last year, the ratings were announced at the big event in Hangar 7. All the chefs went there, and no one knew anything in advance. I wouldn't say I wasn't hoping for two stars—we were very satisfied. This year, though, the ratings were posted online in the morning. The atmosphere last year was something else entirely.

Who comes to your restaurant now? And do you attract different guests through Gault Millau and Falstaff than through Michelin?

International guests mostly come through Michelin. Gault Millau isn't as well known abroad, and its standing in Austria isn't fully understood there. For Austrian guests, not much has changed—I'm still the "Haubenkoch" (toque-wearing chef) to them, even with the Michelin stars.

Overall, guidebook ratings keep improving—does that mean Austria's culinary scene is getting better too?

At the very least, its quality—long-standing for years, even decades—is finally being recognized, not just in fine dining but across the board.

Is there a risk that chefs, chasing Michelin stars, will start using pricier ingredients—like hand-dived Norwegian scallops—hire more staff, and ultimately set prices only wealthy gourmet tourists can afford?

Not in our case. We have our own distinct approach, and we won't tailor it to Michelin. Norwegian scallops may be an "international currency" that Michelin inspectors understand and appreciate, unlike a rare herb that only grows at 2,000 meters. But generally, I see Austrian cuisine's DNA as so strong and resilient that it won't fall victim to that kind of gentrification.

Profile: Andreas Döllerer

Andreas Döllerer, 47, trained under Dieter Müller at Schlosshotel Lerbach (three Michelin stars) before taking over his family's restaurant and hotel on Golling's main square in 2004. A leading figure in the new Alpine cuisine movement, he holds five toques from Gault Millau, a perfect 100-point score from Falstaff, and was named the No. 1 chef in Rolling Pin's "100 Best Chefs of Austria." His restaurant was awarded two Michelin stars again this year.