Why America's asparagus farms are disappearing despite its enduring appeal

Asparagus remains a prized early spring crop, appearing as early as March on the West Coast and by late April in the East. Once planted, the hardy vegetable can yield spears for up to two decades with minimal upkeep. Yet despite its resilience, US production has dropped dramatically over the past 20 years, falling from roughly 24,000 acres to fewer than 10,000 today.

The best time to harvest asparagus begins when spears reach 6 to 10 inches in height and at least half an inch in thickness. Cutting them just above the soil with a sharp knife or scissors ensures the roots stay intact. The season ends naturally once new spears grow as thin as a pencil.

To keep asparagus fresh, immediately plunge the cut stems into cold water. Storing them upright in a cup of water or wrapping the stems in a damp cloth inside a bag extends their short shelf life—ideally, they should be eaten within three days. After the final harvest, allowing the plants to grow until the first frost helps replenish nutrients for the next year's crop.

In the kitchen, asparagus works well in a variety of dishes. It can be grilled into an Eggs in a Basket Grilled Cheese for extra nutrition or blended into a Creamy Fennel, Spinach, and Asparagus Soup. Another popular option is a Bean Salad with Roasted Potatoes, Asparagus, and Pesto.

US asparagus farming has faced steep challenges since 2006. Rising labour costs, water shortages, and competition from cheaper imports—particularly from Peru and Mexico—have pushed many growers to switch to more profitable crops like almonds and strawberries. California, which once produced 80% of the country's asparagus, has seen the sharpest decline. In response, farmers have adopted mechanised harvesters, drip irrigation for water efficiency, and sustainable practices such as cover cropping and reduced tillage to protect soil and manage pests.

The decline in US asparagus production reflects broader shifts in agriculture, with growers adapting to economic pressures and environmental constraints. Meanwhile, the vegetable's versatility in recipes and its status as the first spring harvest continue to make it a seasonal favourite. Proper handling after picking ensures the best flavour and texture before it spoils.