Golden Iraqi Latkes Bring Hanukkah Traditions to Life Through Spice and Memory

A family's Hanukkah celebrations now centre around a fragrant, golden dish: Aruk-Iraqi style latkes. These crisp-edged pancakes, rich with turmeric and fresh herbs, carry the warmth of Jewish traditions from Baghdad and Basra. For the author, their smell filling the kitchen marks both the Festival of Lights and the comfort of home.

The recipe itself is simple, built on boiled potatoes, a handful of spices, and more herbs than typical latkes. Turmeric lends a golden hue, while scallions and other greens add brightness. Unlike the grated-potato versions common in Eastern Europe, these are mashed, then fried until crisp—a nod to the Hanukkah oil miracle.

The tradition of frying latkes stretches back centuries. Before the 19th century, Eastern European Jews made cheese pancakes for the holiday. When potatoes became widely available, they replaced cheese as a cheaper staple. Ashkenazi communities grated them with onions, using little flour or egg, shaped by local ingredients like starchy potatoes. Regional twists emerged—some added carrots or beets, others relied on rapeseed or sunflower oil when animal fats were scarce.

For the author, these Iraqi-inspired latkes do more than feed a crowd. The sizzle of oil in the pan ties them to generations of Jewish cooks. Served with cool yogurt, they've become a favourite of their children, blending heritage with the joy of the season.

The latkes now anchor the family's Hanukkah, their spices and textures a bridge between past and present. As the festival's candles burn, the dish keeps alive both a culinary tradition and the story of perseverance it represents. Each bite, warm and fragrant, carries the weight of memory—and the simple pleasure of sharing.