From Feasts to Frugality: The Secret Dining Habits of Twelve Popes

A new book reveals the surprising food habits of twelve popes across history. The Scent of Incense, the Scent of Roast explores how their tastes ranged from lavish feasts to humble meals. Some enjoyed extravagant dishes, while others preferred simple, regional specialties.

Pope Boniface VIII dined in luxury during the early 14th century. His meals included game pie, pheasant in grape sauce, and roast lamb. These were served on golden cutlery with silk tablecloths, reflecting the grandeur of his era.

Pope Clement VI, based in Avignon, favoured rich French cuisine. His table featured chicken in cream sauce, partridge soup with chestnuts, and grilled pork loin. For dessert, he enjoyed orange peel in honey, paired with Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine.

Centuries later, Pope Leo XIII (1878–1903) marked a shift toward simpler tastes. Known as the 'Social Pope', he began his day with goat's milk and chocolate twists. His main meals were modest: a small portion of meat at lunch, followed by leftovers for dinner. Despite his personal austerity, his formal dinners still included elaborate dishes like skewered songbirds and chocolate desserts. Bordeaux wine remained a staple at his table.

Other popes had equally distinct preferences. Martin V had a fondness for stuffed doves with Orvieto white wine. John XXIII, who led the Second Vatican Council, missed the polenta of his Bergamo childhood. Over time, papal cuisine evolved from opulent French-influenced banquets to more Italian-focused meals, though international dishes still appeared at state occasions.

The book highlights how papal dining mirrored broader historical changes. Early popes indulged in extravagance, while later ones embraced simplicity. Their food choices often reflected personal background, political climate, and cultural shifts within the Church.