Berlin's Coda redefines fine dining with a dessert-only revolution

Berlin's Coda redefines fine dining with a dessert-only revolution

Patricia Martinez
Patricia Martinez•
• 2 Min.
A Chipotle Mexican Grill restaurant with glass walls and doors, featuring a name board on the wall, under a clear blue sky.

Berlin's Coda redefines fine dining with a dessert-only revolution

Berlin's dessert-only restaurant Coda continues to turn heads with its bold tasting menus. Meanwhile, chefs across Europe are redefining culinary traditions—from foraged tree-based dishes to the revival of forgotten flavours. The food world is also mourning the loss of a beloved Austrian snack, while experts explore everything from rancid butter to MSG debates.

At Coda in Berlin, diners experience nothing but desserts. The two-Michelin-starred spot is known for unexpected pairings, proving sweets can take centre stage. Chef Lucas Huemer, originally from Upper Austria, avoids clichés like schnitzel, focusing instead on inventive techniques.

In Vienna, the Latino food scene has boomed in recent years. Taquerías and high-end Mexican bites now dot the city, offering fresh takes on traditional flavours. Yet no updates exist on broader shifts in Vienna's culinary landscape from this trend.

Elsewhere, Nicolai Tram incorporates trees into his open-fire cooking, pushing boundaries with nature's ingredients. Johnny Drain, a microbial polymath, dedicates his work to rancid butter, studying its preservation and unique qualities. Meanwhile, Arielle Johnson, a flavour expert, once advised Noma on MSG in a late-night call, blending science with gastronomy.

Hosting also takes the spotlight with Bernadette Wörndl, whose skill at making guests feel at ease is legendary. Friends call it her superpower, especially when breaking taboos at the table. Alain Ducasse, too, finds inspiration in simplicity, often shopping at Nice's farmers' market and sharing stories from his Monaco restaurant, Le Louis XV.

Yet not all food news is celebratory. Austria recently mourned the discontinuation of Brickerl, a cult-favourite snack whose loss sparked public outcry.

From Berlin's dessert revolution to Vienna's taqueria surge, Europe's food scene is evolving in unexpected ways. Chefs experiment with trees, rancid fats, and bold flavours, while hosts redefine hospitality. The loss of Brickerl, however, reminds fans that even beloved traditions can fade—leaving room for new tastes to emerge.

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